Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
