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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.